Conan! V10/V11

11 Apr
Great compression problem in Magic Wood- Switzerland

First V10 Boulder Problem!

1 May

Bound By Tension from Sean OBrien on Vimeo.

This is something I’ve been striving towards for a long time. I started working this problem (trying different moves) almost a year ago, making the 75 min (beautiful) drive up the coast pretty frequently. I’ve come super close on two other V10’s but it felt great to finally do it.

New Videos!

13 Aug

Keeping Shoulders Safe!

Three good exercises for rock climbers!

New Ninja Warrior Video

27 Feb

Here’s the new American Ninja Warrior audition video for the upcoming season.  It’s a little goofy as they tell me wackiness sells, and in my defense I made it in less then a week.  Skip the first minute if you want to get to the action and if anyone is curious those are the “Full House” houses from the tv show I’m spinning fire in front of.  Hence the song. Enjoy.

Catching Up

8 Dec

It’s been a long time since I’ve checked in via blog form so here we go.  Training in SF is going great! I’ve moved to almost exclusively training out of Diakadi as I like the layout, setup and people there so much. I recently put on a clinic at Diakadi called “Run Healthy” that was well-attended and well-received.

Personally I’ve been climbing a lot.  Hit Yosemite and Bishop three times last month.  The last trip I came so close to sending my first V8 at Bishop with Flyboy SDS, but was shut down, bouncing off the 15ft high lip.  A little bummed I didn’t get it, we left for Yosemite Valley that evening and the next day I send Torque Spanner, for my first outdoor (aka real) V8!!! I felt like this was a long time coming, and put in a ton of work in the climbing gyms this year so it felt good to finally get some validation.  As you can see by the end of the video I was slightly (and embarrassingly) excited. I’ll be cool after the next send, I promise. This video is clearer then the one I posted on FB.

The other awesome thing about that trip is that after working Torque Spanner for a while I was taking a break and watching friends work other problems in the Camp 4 area when a HUGE bobcat decided to stroll right by.  I’ve seen bobcats before and this one was about twice the size. After following him around a bit taking pictures (he didn’t seem to care as long as I didn’t get too close) my adrenaline was really high and I just had a good feeling I was going to send. Anybody who knows me well knows I’m a big fan of big cats (hence my tattoo/logo).


Since I can’t post something without giving some fitness tips let me talk about the Lyon Street Steps.  San Francisco has many, many, many awesome hills and staircases and by this point I’ve run most of them.  I’d heard about the Lyon Street steps from multiple people, mostly about how hard they are, but I hadn’t made it over yet myself. Usually when lots of people tell me how hard something is I secretly think “well, it can’t be that hard or lots of people wouldn’t be doing it”.  These stairs are pretty damn hard.  Like anything it comes down to the effort you put into them, but if you want a great workout with stunning views without leaving the city then Lyon Street Steps are a good bet.  I suppose that’s why so many bootcamps meet there. I stopped by in the middle of a long, hilly bike ride and sprinted the steps three times and carried my bike up once.  The second time up I decided to film it using my iphone.  I got a few funny looks running with one arm pumping furiously and the other trying to steadily hold my iphone out in front of me.  If you want to get a first person view of what running up a bunch of stairs looks like, rewarded with a nice view up top and some of my currently favorite pump-up music check out this video.

Running stairs hard gets the heart rate extremely high in a very short amount of time.  Add in an upperbody exercise like Pushups in between flights and you can do a total body, high intensity workout in just a few minutes.  If you’re training for a long hike these stairs would be great, just put some weight in a pack (water works well) and walk up and down for a while.

All the best,


A good weekend for healthy exercise and unhealthy eating

15 May

I was speaking with a client on Saturday when he asked me a question I get fairly often “Do you ever eat bad stuff?” “Well,” I said, “Last night I went with a friend to Off the Grid Fort Mason where a friend and I shared: A pork belly sandwich, a bowl of ramen, a tray of poutine and a s’mores cupcake.  And when I say share I mean she had a few bites and I ate the rest.”


He thought this was pretty funny but also surprising.  I generally try to convey to my clients the belief that you have to enjoy life, and eating is a big part of that.  It’s extremely important to eat healthy and make good decisions on a regular basis, but it’s OK to splurge here and there as long as you are smart about it and you are getting in enough exercise to somewhat counteract it.  The big thing is that if you are going to eat something unhealthy it should be something that you are really looking forward to and you should thoroughly enjoy it.  What you should avoid is eating junk food because you are bored, because you are in a rush or because you’re sad/depressed. In my case I had been looking forward to trying out the food truck festival since arriving in SF two months ago.  The afternoon before I went I was at Dogpatch Boulders indoor climbing for about three hours so I burned off a lot of calories in preparation.

On Sunday I decided to do another activity I’ve wanted to do since arriving in SF, and jog/hike the Dipsea Trail.  This famous trail stretches 7 extremely hilly miles from Mill Valley to Stinson beach with unbelievable views and varied terrain. It’s 14 miles if you do it as an out and back (the only option unless you do the race or shuttle cars). The fact that we never ran this trail back when I was a pro runner living down on the Peninsula is mind boggling.  It’s so good and so tough.  Sure some of the hills are so steep you almost have to walk up and it does have a lot of stairs but those are good things in my eyes.  Plus it’s rolling hills unlike the normal up for halfway and down for halfway long run.

I highly recommend this trail as a hike, even if you’re not a trail runner, you just need to make sure you prepare for it.  I brought a small backpack for car keys, wallet, phone.  A long sleeve shirt and running pants which turned out to be blatantly unnecessary as it was about 80 degrees the whole way. A 1 liter water bottle with Gatorade packets to add to the water you can get from faucets along the way, which turned out to be outstandingly necessary as it was about 80 degrees the whole way. I also brought a headlamp and a granola bar as I try to always have one of each when out hiking.

The last couple miles of the run I started getting hungry, I thought about what sounded good, remembered that there was an In’n’out burger in Mill Valley and for the last three miles that’s what I was thinking about. I love In n’ Out, it’s one of my weaknesses.  As far as fast food goes you could do worse. In N Out peels its own potatoes and uses fresh beef, and it does not use microwaves, heat lamps or freezers. In the book Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser he tears apart every national fast food chain except In n Out saying ”It isn’t health food, but it’s food with integrity. It’s the real deal,”.  I got a double-double, fries and a chocolate shake, so good.

I realized that last week out was out climbing at Mickeys Beach near Stinson and went this same In n Out, so that’s two weekends in a row.

Here’s a pic from that weekend just because I really like it.  This is my friend Wayne on Endless Bummer 5.13b.

I guess the point of this article is trifold. 1. It’s ok to occasionally eat unhealthy. 2. When you do, try to make sure you get good exercise before or after. 3. Find ways to really enjoy both.  Don’t eat dessert just because it’s something you do.  Savor it.  Try to pick exercises you are going to really enjoy and you’ll be more likely to keep doing them.  Finally, get outside in the sunshine and experience some nature.

More pics from the hike.

Antagonistic Muscle Group Supersets w/Leah

19 Mar

New video I edited together from a workout I put my client Leah through.  Basically we were demonstrating how by using antagonistic (opposing) muscle group supersets you can get a really intense workout, rest one muscle group while the other is working, and get the heart rate super high.  We had some problems with the camera (it kept shutting off) and the angle (holding it the wrong way) but I still like the video and Leah was super impressive in it.


American Ninja Warrior Submission Video!

19 Mar

Here is a video I made for this years American Ninja Warrior.  I competed a couple years ago, was invited back last year but was injured and this year I plan on going back and dominating.

Clubs I train out of videos

19 Mar

Clubs I am available to work out of videos